HSF #21: "La Cage"

Well, it's not actually a "cage." It is a corded petticoat! With all of my upcoming 1860s-ish sewing, I needed some volume going on. I'm not going to do a hoopskirt, not only because I don't have one, but just because...yeah. They're big.

So, I read up on corded petticoats, did some figuring, and whipped up my own! It was a breeze to sew, and is excitingly voluminous!

The Challenge: Re-do. I chose to "re-do" HSF challenge #12, which was "Shape and Support."

Fabric: Ava-lon muslin, 3.5 yards

Pattern: Self-drafted

Year: 1830-60

Notions: 20 yards of cording, thread, buttons

How historically accurate is it? Very, other than the fact that it is machine-sewn.

Hours to complete: 8-ish

First worn: Never!

Total cost: $34

This was a very easy project to make, with the time-consuming part being sewing in all that cording. I just cut two widths of fabric 54" long, gathered them up, added a placket, waistband, then marked my hem and chopped it off evenly. I allowed 4 1/2" for the hem so that it would fall in between the second and third rows of cording. Then I started in on the cording, beginning at the bottom, and working my way up. I would definitely recommend a corded petticoat for a hoop-wary historical seamstress.

The lovely blue lines are proof that I just finished it! That is the reason for my late-in-the-day post. 

I used 5/32" cording, which really seems to be the perfect size! It's stable without being stiff.

Confession time: I still have to sew on the buttons! It will be done soon though, I promise.

I'll be back next week with an outfit post!

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· Yellow 1940s Housedress ·

*Note: I have had this dress done since Thursday, but I've had a horrible cold/flu ever since, so I haven't been able to take pictures of it on me. Thelma Lou graciously volunteered to take my place. ;-)

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 The Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge for today is "Something Yellow." So of course, when I saw that, I naturally thought of my yellow flowery fabric. Buuut, what would I make out of it? Since the deadline is 1945, I was at a loss for what to make. Most of our patterns are from the 1950s, and the few we have from 1945 or earlier are not much to write home about. So I thought and thought, and then it came to me; I would use my new old Hollywood Pattern that I just got as inspiration for my dress!

The original pattern has accent panels on the sides, which I liked, but since I wanted this to be an everyday dress, I figured a solid yellow panel would be impractical. I got the idea to sew ricrac on in the same shape as the panels, to create the illusion of a separate panel.

I got this fabric a few months back at our local fabric shop on clearance for about $4 a yard. I didn't love it at the time, but I just wanted something inexpensive for a housedress. Now that it is made up, I actually do love it!

I used the Vogue V9000 bodice front and back for the top of the dress, and then just cut the skirt to flare out to the full width of the fabric. Then I drew the vertical darts on, making the widest part of the dart at the waistline, tapering it back in at the bottom. I cut the neck a little higher (1/2"?) because I wasn't adding a collar. I actually cut the sleeves like the pattern piece and cut them shorter when I tried it on later.
I put a little piece of interfacing on the inside of the dress where the ties would be placed. The ties were then zig-zagged on, and the ricrac was sewed over them, hiding the seam.

The ricrac was sewed on following the shape so that it would stay flat. That was the hardest part of the dress just because it took FOREVER. It was definitely worth it though because it lies flat even after washing.

All in all, this dress was a great success, and it has given me confidence in "inventing" my own patterns! (And, I've tested it's comfort by laying around in it for four days. It's comfy, I promise!)

The Challenge: Yellow

Fabric: 5 yards cotton. (Probably less would do just fine, but I had 5)

Pattern: Self-drafted, based on vintage Hollywood pattern 1801, using Vogue V9000

Year: 1944

Notions: 5 yards ricrac, 16 buttons, thread

How historically accurate is it? 95%.  I serged a couple edges.

Hours to complete: 12-15

First worn: Friday, and ever since then around home!

Total cost: $35. 

• Regency Spencer Jacket •

I *finally* finished my spencer jacket! The reason it took so long was because I had no buttons. And I simply must have the perfect buttons for what I'm making. To me, the buttons can make or break a garment. Therefore, when I pulled out my little two-pack of these buttons, I knew they had to go on this jacket. So two full weeks later, we went to Joann, and do you think they had them in stock? Why, of course not! These were the one kind of all the buttons that they had none of. Was I defeated? No. I went online and bought them straight from Blumenthal Lansing for the same price, with free shipping. That made me happy, except for the fact that I had to wait yet another week for them to arrive. It was, however, totally worth it. I love my buttons, and I think they look really well on this jacket.

This project wasn't originally intended for the HSF, but when I was looking through the Historical Fashion and Textile Encyclopedia, I noticed that osnaburg was on the list, and decided to nominate it.

The Challenge: Terminology

Fabric: Osnaburg from a local shop, and American Made Brand cotton

Pattern: Butterick 6074

Year: 1811-1820 (?)

Notions: Buttons, interfacing

How historically accurate is it? Quite, I think. The only thing that isn't would be the fusible interfacing

Hours to complete: 5? That's pretty much a wild guess. It did not take very long as it was an easy pattern

First worn: Today, for pictures.

Total cost: $25. I got the osnaburg for $1 a yard!! 

This jacket reminds me of Kitty Bennet's jacket in Pride and Prejudice:

Since the deadline for the HSF is tomorrow, we had to go out in the 85 degree weather and pretend it was fall. I even decided to go heat-stroke style and wear my chemise AND my petticoat. Was I warm enough? Um, yes. If it keeps me this warm in the fall, I will be quite content.

This was definitely an easy pattern. Even though the whole entire jacket is lined, it came together very fast. I am really happy with it - the length, the shoulder width, the sleeve length and everything is just about perfect. The only problem I had was that you cannot iron osnaburg. Can. Not. Thankfully, I discovered that on a scrap and didn't melt it all over the iron. The good part is, it ironed and pressed very well with a damp press cloth, and it washes up almost wrinkle-free.

I changed the pattern only slightly, making it a complete button closure rather than one button at the top with a buckle at the bottom. Other than that, I actually made it like the directions! Yay!

My current project is a fall dress like Lily's. I can't wait!

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Photography by my mom.

A 1938 Ensemble in Paisley

I absolutely love sewing for the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenges. It gives me just the incentive I need to get going and sew! This fortnight's challenge was Paisley & (or) Plaid. I knew I would be making something out of my beautiful pink paisley, but I was at a loss for what to do with it. I searched and searched through our pattern stash, looking for something that was 1945 or earlier, and only took 4 yards or less. I finally decided on this jacket, made a successful mock-up, and then started in on the real deal!

I really like my new jacket. It's comfy, and such a cute print! The sleeves are very comfortable, and have plenty of room in the shoulders (amazingly enough!)

The Challenge: Paisley & Plaid
Fabric:  Rose Garden Jaipur Paisley by April Cornell
Pattern: Vogue V8767
Year: 1938
Notions: Buttons, Thread
How historically accurate is it? About 98%. I serged around the hems of the sleeves. Other than that, I think it is quite accurate.
Hours to complete: 6-8 hours (?)
First worn: Today for pictures
Total cost: $35, approximately. I don't know the exact original cost of the fabric.

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I also made a new skirt to go with the jacket. I wanted something kind of 1938-ish, so I used Butterick 3134, lengthening it by 10 (!) inches, and replacing the waistband with a facing. I'll definitely be using that pattern again. It is very easy to sew, looks good on, and is comfortable!

Inside view of the facing

The fabric I used is a really annoying, sort of stretchy, iron-resistant polyester. It isn't easy to get a nice flat hem, but I think I managed it.

I love that peplum! It's not super full, so it doesn't accentuate the hip area.

Sleeve

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All in all, I'm really happy to have a whole vintage outfit to add to my wardrobe. It feels amazing to have made something!

I am starting a 1950's polka dot nautical dress from Vogue V9000. I can. not. wait. to have that done!

Special thanks to my mom for the loan of her hat! :)

All photos copyright © Dolly Creates.

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HSF #13: Under $10

I just discovered the Historical Sew Fortnightly yesterday, and I immediately was sold on the idea. Then I noticed that the deadline was Monday. Yikes. But I actually made my bonnet in time! Hooray!

The Challenge: Under $10

Fabric:  Little Farmhouse C. 1870 by LB Krueger for Windham Fabrics.

Pattern: Self-drafted, based on Emma Timmins' bonnet on Lark Rise To Candleford.

Year: 1895-ish

Notions: Thread

How historically accurate is it? Very, I think, other than the fact that it is machine stitched. I have forgiven myself, however, because the deadline is tommorow, and I made it today.

Hours to complete: 3

First worn: Not yet, except for try-ons.

Total cost: $6.99 for fabric, plus maybe 50 cents for thread. $7.49.

I designed my bonnet based on Emma Timmins':

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