• Regency Spencer Jacket •

I *finally* finished my spencer jacket! The reason it took so long was because I had no buttons. And I simply must have the perfect buttons for what I'm making. To me, the buttons can make or break a garment. Therefore, when I pulled out my little two-pack of these buttons, I knew they had to go on this jacket. So two full weeks later, we went to Joann, and do you think they had them in stock? Why, of course not! These were the one kind of all the buttons that they had none of. Was I defeated? No. I went online and bought them straight from Blumenthal Lansing for the same price, with free shipping. That made me happy, except for the fact that I had to wait yet another week for them to arrive. It was, however, totally worth it. I love my buttons, and I think they look really well on this jacket.

This project wasn't originally intended for the HSF, but when I was looking through the Historical Fashion and Textile Encyclopedia, I noticed that osnaburg was on the list, and decided to nominate it.

The Challenge: Terminology

Fabric: Osnaburg from a local shop, and American Made Brand cotton

Pattern: Butterick 6074

Year: 1811-1820 (?)

Notions: Buttons, interfacing

How historically accurate is it? Quite, I think. The only thing that isn't would be the fusible interfacing

Hours to complete: 5? That's pretty much a wild guess. It did not take very long as it was an easy pattern

First worn: Today, for pictures.

Total cost: $25. I got the osnaburg for $1 a yard!! 

This jacket reminds me of Kitty Bennet's jacket in Pride and Prejudice:

Since the deadline for the HSF is tomorrow, we had to go out in the 85 degree weather and pretend it was fall. I even decided to go heat-stroke style and wear my chemise AND my petticoat. Was I warm enough? Um, yes. If it keeps me this warm in the fall, I will be quite content.

This was definitely an easy pattern. Even though the whole entire jacket is lined, it came together very fast. I am really happy with it - the length, the shoulder width, the sleeve length and everything is just about perfect. The only problem I had was that you cannot iron osnaburg. Can. Not. Thankfully, I discovered that on a scrap and didn't melt it all over the iron. The good part is, it ironed and pressed very well with a damp press cloth, and it washes up almost wrinkle-free.

I changed the pattern only slightly, making it a complete button closure rather than one button at the top with a buckle at the bottom. Other than that, I actually made it like the directions! Yay!

My current project is a fall dress like Lily's. I can't wait!

Visit the blog live to leave a comment.

Photography by my mom.

• A Regency Petticoat •

A while back I was planning on making a Regency bodiced petticoat, but I decided that for now, an un-bodiced one would be much more practical. I had some really lovely muslin, so I finally decided to whip up a petticoat. I used the Simplicity 4055 skirt front piece for the front, making the edges go straight in rather than curving in and back out. For the back, I just cut a piece the width of the fabric, and as long as I wanted it. 

There are four big pleats in the back, and four tiny ones in the front. I also added a placket and put on a waistband with a tab closure.

Originally, I was planning on putting in four rows of cording, but finally decided that I wanted ruffles instead. They look so cute peeking out from underneath the dress, like in this picture:

Source

I made a 2" ruffle out of a double layer of fabric so that it would be stiff, and I wouldn't have to hem it! The hardest part of the whole petticoat was gathering up all that ruffle! Other than that though, it was a fast and easy project.

And even though it's a Regency petticoat, I can totally see wearing it with Victorian and Edwardian styles as well.

Front

Back

Inside view of ruffle. (I know....they didn't have sergers in 1814. Oh well.)

~~~~~~~~~~~

Other sewing room news:

I've got buttons coming for my spencer jacket, so that should finally be done by this weekend.

We're sewing fast and furious in preparation for a fall vacation. Long sleeved 1950s dresses, plaid half circle skirts, Regency dresses, all kinds of goodies. I can't wait to share them with you!

Visit the blog live to leave a comment!

A Regency Chemise

At last...a post about my Regency chemise. I decided one day that I should make one, but guess what; I didn't feel like dishing out $15 for a pattern. I mean, it's not like they are already perfectly sized and ready to make or anything. Hehe.

So, really, a simple chemise shouldn't be hard to design, right? Nah...it only takes three days and three partial mockups. And that's just to get the silly pattern made. Then I could finally start the actual garment.

After a few days of off-and-on sewing on it, I got it done. This was my first time flat-felling seams. I really like how it looks, inside and out. There won't be any ravelling going on there for a good long time.

I did sew it all by machine (I know...historical accuracy just went down the drain). I'll save that task for the next one.

I found Sense & Sensibility Patterns' Regency Undergarments Instructions to be very helpful. She shows a picture of each step, making it nice and easy to follow.

~~~~~~~

On to the pictures!!!

Front

Back

Sleeve gusset

Inside view of gusset seam

There is a ribbon drawstring inside, which ties and just tucks in. I embroidered an (of course pink) E on the front...just because.

My apologies for the less than stellar photos. We have a serious lighting problem, as well as an inexperienced photographer. (Yours truly). Working on that....

I am going to make a bodiced petticoat next, but first in line is my leazing dress. I'm counting on the farmer not to harvest his wheat until I get my dress done, but I think I need to hurry just in case.

And, HSF's challenge, Under $10 is due Monday. I want to get my leazing bonnet done in time for that. I really need to hurry!

Visit the blog live to leave a comment.

Regency Gown: Simplicity 4055

*EDIT: This dress is now for sale in my Etsy shop!  See the listing here.*
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

At last! The long awaited Regency Dress post!!

Pattern used: Simplicity 4055

I have to say, this was the most wonderful experience I have ever had with a pattern. Ordinarily I have trouble with patterns, and they’re all stuffed full of crazy sewing language that I have yet to interpret. This pattern, however, is a different story. I basically had no trouble with it whatsoever! Hurray! AND, I made my very first buttonholes. I have conquered my fear of them forever. Victory.

I had only a week to make the whole entire dress, and I finished the hem the day before our Ladies' Day tea party. That was a miracle.

I made view B, using A sleeves, and making the back a button closure. I lengthened the bodice by three inches because the pattern is made to be worn with period underpinnings. I didn’t want to bother with that with this dress, so I chose to lengthen it. I also used elastic instead of a drawstring, to make it more wearer-friendly.

I love this pattern SO much, that I am already making another one! It is not only beautiful, but also absolutely comfortable. Pretty much, it’s a feel-good dress! 

I had to pick Bleak House, since the leading lady is Esther...

those flowers actually don't smell like anything...

I found cute shoes 5 days before the Ladies' Day, and they had to be ordered. 

That. was. scary. 

You will never play really well, Miss Bennet, unless you practice more!

I haven't gotten a chance to wear this collar with the dress yet, but I think it would be beautiful!

Back view. 

Buttonholes.

The hem! And I didn't even have to do it by hand!!

The way the placket ended up, we used snaps so that there wasn't a gap.

Back.

It is lined with lovely batiste, which feels wonderful on, and is the perfect weight for a lining.

Shoulder

Shoulder seams actually fall behind the ordinary shoulder seam area, like actual Regency gowns did.

Puff sleeves!!!

~

Sorry for the picture overload, but I love my dress so much, I just couldn't help it!!

Thanks for stopping by!

Fabric Stash Update #1143

I know...I keep promising pictures of my Regency dress. I took them yesterday, so they will definitely be on here in the next day or two.

Meanwhile, I am happy to announce that I added to my fabric stash today. Isn't that always a good thing??!!!

Purple satin back shantung. It is definitely going to be a regency ball gown-type dress. (No, I don't go to balls, but the dresses are too purty not to make!)

Vintage style fabric, Aunt Grace Scrap Bag from the collection of Judie Rothermel for Marcus Brothers Textiles. 

Vintage dress, here I come!!

This. Is. My. Favorite. Fabric. EVERRRR!!! 

Garibaldi II by Sara Morgan for Blue Hill Fabrics, Pattern #7645

This beautiful print is destined to be a regency apron.

??? No name.

And last but not least, the most gorgeous green striped fabric on earth. Ever.

Canterbury by Robert Callaham for Red Rooster Fabrics DSN#18177.

~~~~~~~~~~~

Not a bad haul, eh? I am excited.

I am also in the middle of yet another regency gown, using Windham Fabrics Somerset Shirtings, #35207-2, which also happens to be the most beautiful fabric in the world, ever. 

I think I like fabric...

Look for pictures coming soon! Thanks for stopping by.

~Dolly~

Regency Gown Sneak Peek...

I'm hoping to finish it today! Full pictures and details will follow.

Regency Apron: Butterick 5509

~~~~~~~~~~~~

My apologies for being absentee for a few days! So...I know I said I was going to make that vintage blouse, but, I just had to have a Regency apron first. I made it out of some blue floral cotton from JoAnn. I just love it. There is, however, a catch. I ended up making it the wrong size for myself, so I gave it to my mom. It fits her perfectly, and the style is actually going to be perfect to modify into a Regency-style dress. Can't wait to see that!!

Butterick 5509...still available as far as I know.

This was another good learning experience - the pattern wasn't hard, but it took a while to get it done. And I got some more practice following those mortal enemies of mine called patterns. It was a wonderful pattern though, as far as patterns go because once again, there were no buttons, zippers, sleeves, or interfacings to deal with. 

I would recommend this pattern - it's a great Regency-type apron, and a fun sewing experience. Size down, if you're in between sizes.

Have fun checking out a few pictures!